guinea pig breeds abyssinian

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Guinea Pig Breeds Abyssinian

The Abyssinian is one of the oldest guinea pig breeds and today, one of the most commonly entered for competition at guinea pig breeder shows. The Abyssinian is known for having a crazy coat of fur! Unlike other guinea pig breeds which can have smooth short hair, straight or wavy long hair, or even curly hair – the Abyssinian has hair that grows in swirls. Each swirl is called a “rosette” by breeders, and the most perfect rosette is one with a single pin sized center. The ideal coat for an Abyssinian is short with anywhere between eight and ten rosettes – preferably with ridges where the edges of each rosette meet running in straight lines, without any portion of flat hair. Finally, the ideal Abyssinian is not complete without an adorable little mustache.

If you are interested in showing your guinea pig, know that judges are looking for breed standard perfection. In this case that means prefect single centered rosettes, well pronounced ridges, fur that does not lie flat, is not long, and preferably coats that are not single colored (because single colored coats tend to be too soft and this affects the over all effect of the swirly rosettes.)

Abyssinians do not have a tendency towards health or behavioral problems, so rest assured if you have your heart set on one. The only factor to consider with an Abyssinian is that their swirly hair can require a little more grooming compared to smooth haired piggies as it just does not naturally lie neatly. All you will need to groom your Abyssinian is a soft bristled baby brush. This will work to gently groom and untangle his or her coat. Also, if you have any intention of showing your guinea pig – do not bathe him or her right before the show as this will cause his or her fur to fall flat – not a look judges are going for!

guinea pig nails

Guinea Pig Nails

Just like humans, guinea pigs have nails that continuously grow. In the wild, normal everyday activities would naturally wear down nail length. However, pet guinea pig spend most of their days living in plush cages with soft bedding, which will simply not keep a guinea pig’s nails short enough. While you can add items to your guinea pigs cage like bricks, which will wear down their nails to some degree – there is no way to avoid the fact that you will need to trim an adult (babies and adolescents are less likely to need their nails trimmed, maybe just filed down if sharp) guinea pig’s nails on a regular basis. Always be sure to check the nail length on the back legs first as these tend to grow fastest.

What happens if you don’t trim your guinea pig’s nails?

Your guinea pigs nails will get hard, long, and start to turn inward toward the foot. If left completely alone, the nails will actually pierce the foot of your guinea pig – leading to pain, infection, and potential complications.

How to Cut Your Guinea Pig’s Nails

First of all, know that if you feel nervous about cutting your guinea pig’s nails the first few times – this is completely normal! Pretty much everyone feels this way. The only way to start to feel comfortable is by doing.

Any kind of baby nail scissors or nail clippers will do. Be prepared for your guinea pig to actively resist this grooming task. Sometimes its easiest to divide the task between two people – one person holds the guinea pig wrapped in a towel while the other clips the toe nails. Otherwise this is a task your pet will get used to over time.

Be sure that you make an active effort to avoid cutting the “quick” of the nail. The “quick” is the living part of the nail – easily visible on guinea pigs with clear nails (its pink) but hard to see on black nails. If cut, this will cause pain and bleeding. Try to cut as little as possible on a regular basis if you feel you have trouble determining the right spot. If you do end up accidentally cutting the quick, use a product like “Quick Stop” to stop the bleeding.

cavy sexing

Cavy Sexing

Being able to determine the sex of a guinea pig is vital to preventing unwanted pregnancies. Its incredibly common for pet store employees to misjudge the sex of an animal and place a female guinea pig in a cage with males (or the other way around.) Unsuspecting customers bring “Sam” home only discover they really have a pregnant “Samantha.”

When is the earliest you can sex a puppy?

About two weeks. Its harder to determine any earlier than that.

When do Males and Females Need to Be Separated?

By weeks three (ideally) and four (longest.) A male puppy can (and WILL) impregnate the mother as early as three weeks of age.

Cavy Sexing: How to

Roll the guinea pig over so you can get a clear view of the sex organs.

Males – Will have a rounded area in front of the anus. If pressed gently the penis will appear.

Females – Will have a hairless inverted Y (covers the vagina) above the anus.

Here is a site with GREAT pictures across a wide range of ages. Do not miss:

http://www.cavyspirit.com/sexing.htm

The Wrong Way to Sex

Its not uncommon to read sexing instructions that suggest counting nipples. Guess what? All guinea pigs have two nipples, they just vary in size.

Do not assume you can take your guinea pig to a pet store and have an employee sex them for you. These employees, no matter how friendly and helpful, are not experts and they are notorious for making mistakes. Instead, visit an experienced guinea pig veterinarian. You’ll be glad you did.

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cavy breeds

Cavy Breeds

Did you know that the primary differences between guinea pig breeds comes down to hair length and hair type?

Here are your choices:

Short and smooth – grows head to tail and lies smooth without waves or rosettes. Hair can be many different colors and ranges from solid, to patterned, random appearing patterns, and different colors on tips.

Long- Can be smooth or curly/wavy. Maintenance includes brushing, detangling, and trimming hair.

Other- Rosettes (hair that grows in a swirl pattern, see Abyssinian) crests (sort of like a mohawk, see Crested), and really thick fuzzy coats (see Rex.)

Description of Guinea Pig Breeds

On of the most confusing thing about trying to learn about guinea pig breeds is that people do not always differentiate between actual breeds, and descriptions of fur type/unique coloring. In this listing I will try to make sure this is fairly obvious.

The American Guinea Pig Breed

The American (also called “self” and the “English Cavy”) guinea pig is the most common guinea pig breed. This short haired, smooth fur guinea pig is exactly what most people envision when they think “guinea pig.” Known for being very loving and personable, American guinea pig are also the easiest to care for and ideal for young children due to the fact that their short, smooth coats do not require extensive grooming.

: “Hi, I am an american guinea pig – the most common breed of guinea pig!”

The American guinea pig also has a “satin” variation, which is an especially shiny coat.

Details:

Pink Eyed White – Not a true albino. Also has white claws. For show purposes the coat must be kept pristine and cannot be stained. For this reason near show time some breeders avoid feeding carrots.
Black - Solid black guinea pig. Considered ideal if does not have any differently colored hairs or a poor under color. Eyes, ears, claws, etc must be black.
Cream – Eyes should be red and ears/pads pink. Sometimes when grooming it is possible to remove too much hair in some spots and the color will appear patchy.
Pink Eyed Golden – Medium gold coat considered ideal. Like the Cream, over-grooming can cause a patchy appearance. Also bred for dark eyes.
Red – Mahogany in color.
Chocolate – Color of chocolate with dark red eyes.
Beige – Creme caramel in color with pink eyes.
Lilac – Dark lilac to dove grey.
Buff – Like a dark Creme with dark eyes.
Saffron – Medium sand color with pink eyes.

Abyssinian Guinea Pig Breed

The Abyssinian guinea pig (also called the Aby) is known for having a coat covered in rosettes (deep swirls of hair with a single center.) This breed also comes in a variety of colors, listed below. The ideal Abyssinian has “perfect” rosette patterning, which is considered to be four swirls running straight down the saddle, four on the bottom, and one or two on each shoulder. Ridges are formed where rosettes meet and to be considered “perfect” they should run in straight lines down the body. Can be slightly challenging to groom.

Like the Self, the Abyssinian also comes in a satin coated variety.

: “Look at me! I can be as crazy as my hair!”

Agouti (Coloring)

Two distinct shades on coat. Comes in golden, silver, cinnamon, lemon, chocolate, and cream.

Argente (Coloring)

Variation on Agouti. Golden/lilac, Golden/Beige, White/Lilac, White/Beige, Lemon/Lilac, Lemon/Beige.

Brindled (Coloring)

Coat is and even mixing of red and black hairs.

Crested Guinea Pig Breed

Has a single rosette on forehead, the rest of the coat is smooth and short. The White Crested Guinea pig (also called American Crested) has a white rosette on the forehead, while the rest of the body is another color. The Self Crested guinea pig breed will have a crest the same color as the rest of the body. Popular colors include Golden and Black.

The Coronet Guinea Pig Breed

The Coronet also has a single rosette on the forehead, but instead of having short hair like the Crested Guinea pig you will find beautiful long hair.

Peruvian Guinea Pig Breed

Longest of the long haired breeds. Hair can reach more than twelve inches in length and falls with a soft wave. You will also notice that the hair naturally parts down the middle of the piggie’s back and falls forward over the forehead so it is hard to see the piggie’s face. The hair must be trimmed, detangled, and groomed to avoid matted spots and tangles. Among people who show their Peruvians, frequently they wrap their piggie’s hair in order to keep it in perfect condition. Many owners end up trimming the hair to a manageable length if they do not plan to enter their piggie in a guinea pig show. Not ideal as a family pet if you are looking for avoid time spent grooming.

The Peruvian also comes in a Satin variety.

Silkie Guinea Pig Breed

Like the Peruvian, the Silkie guinea pig breed also has very long hair but instead of naturally parting down the middle it sweeps straight back, and the face is visible- this gives the Silkie a unique tear dropped shape when viewed from above. The fur of the Silkie is also softer and shinier than the Peruvian. The Silkie also comes in a Satin variety – note for people with young children – this maybe the hardest breed for your young child to handle as it is very slippery!

Teddy Guinea Pig Breed

The teddy guinea pig breed is known for having a wiry, short, dense coat. The texture of the coat, its kinky nature, and the resemblance to the stuffed animal is responsible for the breed name. If you pull on a strand of hair, you can extend it to its full length, but the minute you let go into will spring back into a kinky wave. Teddy guinea pigs also have upturned, “Roman” noses which give their faces an adorable inquisitive appearance.

The teddy guinea pig also comes in “satin” meaning the coat has a satin feel with a glossy appearance.

Texel Guinea Pig Breed

The Texel is one of the least common guinea pig breeds. This type has long curly hair (looks permed) with a small compact body. Like the other long haired piggies, the Texel can be challenging to keep groomed.

Less Common Guinea Pig Breeds

Alpaca - Long curly hair that falls forward over the forehead.

Merino – Crest on the forehead with long curly hair.

Hairless Guinea Pigs

Baldwin – totally hairless.

Skinny Pigs – Mostly hairless but with some patches of fur.

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guinea pig teeth

Guinea Pig Teeth

Guinea pigs have twenty teeth in total and all are born with their full set of adult teeth. In the front there are four incisors (these will appear longer than the rest of the teeth) – these teeth are used specifically for gnawing. Unlike other rodents, guinea pigs have incisors which are white – not brown yellow. However, like all other rodents, guinea pigs have teeth that will continue to longer their entire lives. Why is this? In the wild, guinea pig and other rodents would need to chew through and breakdown foods that are considerably rougher than what we feed them today. If their teeth did not continue to grow, in no time they would be worn down to little nubs! Instead, due to the fact that guinea pigs only have hard enamel on the front of their incisors – the constant chewing action is actually what allows them to wear down into sharp chisels as the back side will wear down considerably more.

If you look inside the mouth of your guinea pig, you will notice that unlike other animals, guinea pigs do not have canine teeth in the outside corner of their mouths. Instead this space is free of teeth but mostly obscured by cheek pads. This is why examining a guinea pig’s teeth can be difficult. Inside your guinea pig has one premolar and three molars on each side. Unlike human teeth, these molar are set at a slight angle (approx 30 degrees.) You may also notice that there is more space between the lower teeth than upper teeth. So how do guinea pigs chew their food? With side to side movements, not up and down!

Tooth overgrowth is the single most common tooth related health problem. If your guinea pig is not eating, always check of tooth problems first. If teeth grow too long, your guinea pig will not be able to chew properly. Over time, if left untreated this will cause significant jaw problems and deformity that will not be fixable. If you suispect this is happening to your guinea pig, take him or her to the veterinarian. Your veterinarian will be able to file your guinea pig’s teeth back down to the correct length. Do not attempt to do this yourself!

The best way to prevent tooth problems is to provide a constant supply of timothy hay for your guinea pig to chew on. Timothy hay is abrasive enough to keep your guinea pig’s teeth at the correct length.

For more information on how to care for your guinea pig and prevent unnecessary health problems, click here!

guinea pig supplies

Guinea Pig Supplies

Basic Guinea Pig Cage Supplies:

A place (or places) for your guinea pig to hide. Remember, your guinea pig is a prey animal by nature and is simply going to be happiest when he has a place to hide out of sight. We recommend PVC pipe as its cheap and doubles as a play tunnel. Any kind of indestructible overturned box with a hole (so your guinea pig can climb in and out) will work as well. Check out the local pet store and see what you can find.

A water source – We recommend a bottle with a metal drinking tip. The main advantage of the water bottle is its easy for your guinea pig to use, easy for you to fill, and you won’t have to deal with it constantly being knocked over. However if you guinea pig is not drinking enough water, consider adding a water dish.
Hay rack – A hay rack attaches to the outside of your guinea pig’s cage. This ensures your guinea pig always has fresh hay to nibble on.
Clay bowl for food – too heavy to for your guinea pig to knock over.

Note for UK visitors: recommended stores include Thistle Cavies, sdk

Guinea Pig Supplies: Cage Terrain

The sky is pretty much the limit when it comes to how you want to decorate your guinea pigs cage. Here are a couple additions we recommend:

PVC pipes – You can build tunnels for your guinea pig to play in. If you add in T joints and and elbow joints you can have fun creating an elaborate set of tunnels for your guinea pig to explore.
Bricks and rocks – Both of these items are fun for your guinea pig to play (exercise is good) on AND bring the added bonus of being rough enough to keep your guinea pig’s claws filed down.
Balls and mirrors. Anything that moves is going to be a big hit.

Guinea Supplies: First Aid

3% hydrogen peroxide solution
Antibiotic ointment
Artificial tear gel
Anti itch spray
Ear wipes
Eye wipes
Bitter apple spray
Bandages
Gauze
Stretch bandages
First aid lotion
Cotton balls
Cotton swabs
Optional items:
- Saline solution to flush eyes
- Needleless syringe
- Latex gloves
- Tweezers
- Tick release ointment
- Rectal thermometer
- Vaseline
- Penlight
- Storage container to hold first aid supplies

How to organize supplies

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guinea pig bedding

Guide to Guinea Pig Bedding

Despite the fact that guinea pigs are relatively low maintenance pets there are still some rules that must be observed when it comes to selecting guinea pig bedding.

First of all the following guinea pig bedding materials must be avoided:

A folded bath towel.
Pine shavings – these are POISONOUS for guinea pigs. Kiln dried pine shavings are available. In theory, being baked at high temperatures removed most of the poisonous resins. The only issue with kiln baked pine is if the materials are not actually baked as claimed as this is not regulated. This means there is always a chance that the pine you are using could be harming your guinea pig.
Cedar shavings – EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Cedar shavings are known to cause respiratory problems. Some guinea pigs are also allergic to cedar.
Straw – Straw is rough and may injure your guinea pig. Straw also does not absorb droppings nor smell.

Here are the guinea pig bedding materials we recommend:

Aspen (expensive and no odor control.)
CareFRESH – CareFRESH looks sort of like shredded egg cartons and is made from wood pulp that cannot be processed into paper. CareFRESH is especially popular because it inhibits the formation of ammonia thus providing excellent odor control.
Crown Pellet Bedding – made from recycled newspaper which is then compressed into pellets. Like CareFRESH, crown pellet bedding controls odor but due to its rough texture it cannot be used as the sole bedding. Instead layer underneath something softer.
Corn Cob Bedding – popular for its ‘organic’ roots and soft enough to use as the sole bedding. If you choose to go this route please monitor regularly for mold growth as corn cob bedding grows mold faster than other bedding options.
Timothy Hay – This is the option we consider the best for the following reasons – Timothy hay is soft, has a wonderful scent, and is a food source for your guinea pig. In fact your guinea pig will spend hours tunneling around in the hay…making sleeping nests, etc. The best place to purchase Timothy hay is directly from a farmer, farm supply store, or gardening center.
Fleece – found at your local craft store (see below.

A note on newspaper – many people feel using newspaper as bedding is not the best solution as it tends to stink and tear up into little bits when wet.

For UK vistors, I know people sometimes have trouble finding supplies. Give B+J Dance or http://www.planetguinea.co.uk/ a try for fleece bedding, Medibed, Aubiose, or Jopack Flax. If you are looking for hay try www.dustfreehay.co.uk or www.thehayexperts.co.uk.

Guinea pig bedding: Fleece!

These days it looks like everyone is talking about try fleece bedding. What are the advantages? Aside from being soft and snuggly, fleece is reusable – all it requires is a toss in the washing machine. Think of the money saved on bedding that has to be disposed of every week. Make sure you understand though, fleece is not going to absorb urine. Yes, this is actually an advantage. Instead the fleece will wick the urine down to an underlayer of bedding (towel, newspaper, puppy training pads…) which will absorb the urine – while THE FLEECE STAYS DRY. So, this should actually be more comfortable. Some people also consider fleece bedding a safer alternative than wood shavings or products like careFresh which can be dangerous when ingested.

Getting Started With Fleece Guinea Pig Bedding

The kind of fleece you are looking for is 100% polyester. A fabric store or Walmart will offer a large selection of colors and prints which can be cut to any length. In general, fleece is not too expensive and for the most part you can expect it to last around two years. I recommend buying enough fabric for two beddings per cage as this will allow you to have one in the cage and one being washed.

This is the most important step: Wash it Multiple Times

Once you have made your selections take the fabric home and run them through the washer and dryer 3-4 times. The reason for this is to encourage the maximum amount of shrinkage before you cut the blankets to size AND to encourage the fabric to absorb moisture instead of repelling it. Make sure during this process you do not add fabric softener as this can promote repelling water.

Best Fleece Bedding Setup

One to two layers of fleece max. Any more and the urine will not be able to reach the underbedding.

Consider combining underbeddings for maximum benefit. Fleece then towel then newspaper or puppy pad. Why? Newspaper has a bad habit of sticking to fleece and it needs to be replaced pretty quickly (as it will start to smell.)

Recommended New Material for Absorbent Inner Layer for Guinea Pig Bedding

“Zorb” is a brand new super-absorbent type of fabric than can be found here. Zorb is made up of fibers from bamboo, cotton, viscose, and poly micro fiber. According to the manufacturer 1 layer of Zorb is as absorbent as 3 layers of flannel and 2.25 layers of french terry. Zorb leaks less than other absorbent fibers due to the fact that it is able to quickly soak up and distribute liquid.

guinea pig sneezing

Sneezing, Runny Nose, Rubbing Nose – Some sneezing is normal and should not be a cause for concern. Excessive sneezing and runny can sometime be caused by bedding allergies. Try switching out your bedding for a type known to not cause problems – see my article on Guinea Pig Bedding for more info. If switching out the bedding does not resolve the issue, please visit your veterinarian as your guinea pig could have an infection.

guinea pig adoption UK

Guinea Pig Adoption United Kingdom (UK)

Congratulations for your interest in adopting a guinea pig instead of buying from a pet store or a breeder. Every year shelters and guinea pig rescues struggle to find homes for animals who have been abandoned by their families. The guinea pigs you will find up for adoption are not problem pets, simply animals unlucky enough to have had families who were not able to keep them for various reasons. Adopting a guinea pig saves yet another animal from unnecessary euthanasia, so thanks again!

So what do you need to know about the guinea pig adoption process? Well first of all rescue organizations as a whole tend to be very committed and passionate. This means they will have standards they expect prospective applicants to adhere to before allowing the adoption to go through. Why is this? For one, there is the strong commitment to the animal’s welfare – no one wants to see a guinea pig placed in a home where he or she is likely to be neglected or mistreated. Secondly, there is little desire to go to all the work to place a guinea pig in a home only to have the new owners change their minds.

What are UK guinea pig rescue organizations looking for?

Rescue organizations are looking to adopt out to families not children. Most organizations are looking for a strong commitment and interest from an adult. The main reason for this strong standard is that if the parents are not also interested in guinea pigs, if the child loses interest later on the animal is very likely to be given substandard care or abandoned. Other restrictions could also include not adopting out except as a pair (unless you have a lone guinea pig at home already) as guinea pigs require the company of other guinea pigs in order to be happy.

Expect to be required to buy certain approved equipment. This usually means that you are expected to house your guinea pigs in appropriately sized cube and coroplast cages – anywhere from 7.5 square feet for one cavy and 10.5 square feet for two. Some rescues provide these cages for a small fee, usually $40-$60. Many rescues will also make great effort to educate you on proper guinea pig cage locations – not one’s garage, laundry room, or outdoors. You will also be expected to have other supplies like approved cage bedding, accessories, and food ready at time of adoption.

Finally – note that rescues do not look favorably on adopting out guinea pigs to owners who may want to breed them. When you run a guinea pig rescue you run into way to many unwanted animals who were the products of failed home breeding businesses.