abyssinian guinea pig
Welcome back! Have you visited our new forum?
All About The Abyssinian
The Abyssinian guinea pig, or “Aby” as it is frequently called, is one of the oldest and most common guinea pig breeds. At first glance the Aby appears to be suffering from a serious case of bad hair day. Actually, this breed is known for having a coat covered in “rosettes” which look very much like swirly cowlicks. It is the rosettes which cause the Abyssinian’s hair to stand up all over – not a lack of grooming as this is a prized trait. The Abyssinian is only defined by their coat texture, not the color or colors of their coat, which can be varied. In general guinea pigs do not differ in personality that much from breed to breed, but the Abyssinian is rumored to be mischievous, on top of being loving and fairly trainable. The sweet and gentle personality makes it a great pet for those who are not unwilling to spend a little extra time grooming their cute and crazy hair (although not nearly as much time as a longer haired guinea pig like a Silkie or Peruvian.) If you are a family with young children and you are not sure how much time you can devote to grooming, consider getting a smooth short haired American guinea pig instead.
The “Perfect” Abyssinian Guinea Pig
All Abyssinians are perfect just as they are – of course! However, if you want to show a guinea pig there are certain breed standards to be aware of. First of all, each rosette must be clearly defined (meaning the outside edges are obvious) and have a single center. The perfect number of rosettes is one or two per shoulder, four across the bottom and four on the sides. The point where the outside edges of rosettes come together is called a ridge. Ideally ridges should flow in a straight line down and across the body. Lastly, no part of the Abyssinian’s coat should lie flat or smooth. Oh and he or she should have a cute little “mustache!”
Many people who show Abyssinians find the coat texture varies according to the color of the coat. Single colored animals tend to have softer coats which lack that desired textured look. Roans, Brindles, and Tortoiseshell seem to have more of the “ideal” look. Mind you this is just a standard for show and in no way implies Abyssinians are too rough to pet or do not make good lap pets. When prepping your guinea pig for a show avoid a bath or anything else that will cause the fur to lie flat.
Where Can I Find an Abyssinian Guinea Pig?
If you have your heart set on picking up an Abyssinian – do not despair – you can find many pure bred guinea pigs available for adoption at your local rescue or animal shelter. That’s right, you do not need to visit a breeder unless you are looking specifically for a show animal. Many perfectly good guinea pigs, including purebreds, are surrendered to shelters every year simply because their families are unable to keep them for a variety of reasons.
Abyssinian Guinea Pig Breeders
Remember, when looking for a great breeder – check to make sure he or she does not keep very many guinea pigs at one time. More than fifty guinea pigs is frequently a good sign that you have run into a mill or commercial breeder. Instead look for someone who keeps their animals in good condition and as “part of the family.” Also look for someone who is choosy about who they will sell their guinea pigs to. You don’t want to work with someone who is desperate to find owners. Finally, an offer of a “lifetime guarantee” to take back the guinea pig should you not be able to keep them for whatever reason is also a great sign.
Highland Cavies of the Yellow Rose
Pictures of Abyssinians
Photo by bivoir – away for a while
Photo by Just chaos
feeding guinea pigs
Feeding Guinea pigs
Note: The key to the healthiest guinea pigs is diet variety. Try to rotate the fresh fruits and veggies as much as possible. Also, don’t be discouraged if your piggie refuses to eat certain foods. This is normal. Guinea pigs have their own tastes and preferences which one comes to know over time. Also, try to make sure greens are the center of the diet with sweeter foods like fruit and carrots playing a smaller role.
The Best Foods
Alfalfa
Timothy Hay
Alfalfa vs Hay – What is the Difference?
Alfalfa is generally higher in calories and calcium than Timothy hay. For this reason it is generally recommended for guinea pigs under one year old, pregnant or nursing mothers, and sick or thin cavies. This same rule applies when it comes to selecting food pellets as well.
The Best Pellets
Get a simple blend without any additives like nuts, seeds, sugar, dried fruit, etc. Also avoid anything with added fat or animal products. Popular high quality brands include Oxbow and KM’s Hayloft.
How Much to Feed?
About 1/8 cup pellets per day, unlimited hay and fresh veggies – say a couple large whole green leaves (think romaine lettuce sized) and a half cup of something else.
Greens (Great sources of vitamin C)
- kale
- collard greens
- Swiss chard
- mustard
- dandelion
- beet
- spinach
- carrot tops
- pea shoots
Lettuces
- Green
- Butter
- Red
- Frisse
- Arugula
- Endive
- Radicchio
Herbs
- Cilantro
- Parsley
- Basil
- Dill
- Mint
- Thyme
- Chives
Grains
- Wheat
- Winter rye
Acidic Fruits (warning can cause mouth sores)
- Tomato
- Citrus fruits (lemon, lime, grapefruit, oranges)
- Pineapple
Berries
- Blueberries
- Blackberries
- Cherries (must be pitted)
- Cranberries
- Strawberries
- Currants
- Gooseberries
Melons
- Cantaloupe
- Honey Dew
Other Fruits
- Kiwi
- Apples
- Pears
- Apricot
- Peach
- Mango
- Papaya
High Fiber Veggies (can cause gas and bloating)
- Broccoli (flowers and stems)
- Cauliflower
- Cabbage
Veggies
- Bell Peppers
- Artichoke
- Asparagus
- Small pieces of celery
- Corn
Root Veggies
- Sweet Potato
- Celery Root
- Kohlrabi
- Turnip
- Parsnip
- Beets
- Rutabaga
- Fennel
Squash
- Acorn
- Banana
- Zucchini
- Butternut
- Pumpkin
From the Garden (all must be pesticide free)
- Grass
- Clover
- Dandelions
The Worst Foods
Note: Least obvious food to avoid? Long stalks of celery! The fiberous strings will give your guinea pig a lot of digestive problems. Be sure to cut up into very small pieces if you wish to serve.
Foods Too High in Fat
- Avocado
- Coconut
- Nuts/Peanut Butter
Foods Too High in Sugar
- Fruit Juice
- Dried Fruit
Foods Lacking Nutrients
- Iceberg lettuce
Foods With Too Strong a Taste
- Onions
- Garlic
- Horseradish
- Hot peppers and chilies
“People” Foods to Avoid
- Beverages – coffee and tea
- Prepared foods, fried foods,baked items…
- Meat and dairy
- Pickled foods
Choking Hazards
- Seeds
Poisonous Foods
- Dry beans and peas
- Commercially grown flowers and plants (pesticides)
- Potatoes with any green spots or sprouts
- Rhubarb
- Raw Taro
Extending the Life of Hay
The biggest problem with buying hay in bulk is the growth of mold. Much of this can be prevented by keeping the hay as dry as possible. The fresher the hay the more moisture it contains. This means that very fresh hay cannot be stored in plastic bags or containers unless dried. For interior storage, cloth lined baskets work well such as those used as laundry bins.
Pellet Storage
Make sure you buy the freshest pellets possible. Check the bag for an expiration date to make sure. The freshness and vitamin content of the pellets is best preserved by storing in a cool, dark location.
For more great information on feeding guinea pigs, be sure to subscribe to our newsletter!
guinea pigs baby
How to Care For Baby Guinea Pigs
Special Cage Requirements for Pregnant Mothers and Babies
Pregnancy can be really exhausting and stressful for the expecting mother. It is a good idea to move her to her own cage once she has become obviously pregnant or is showing signs of stress. No matter what, make sure there are no males present in the birthing cage as the mother will become fertile almost immediately following birth.
Most guinea pig cages are built with adult sized guinea pigs in mind. Babies are small enough to escape through the standard 1.5in x 1.5in grids in the average C&C cage. An escaped guinea pig baby is at risk or injury or even death. As the pigs get larger there will also be a risk of strangulation or injury if they stick their heads through the holes in the grid and get stuck. To prevent this you will want to line the interior cage walls (starting from the floor level) with about a foot of either cardboard or coroplast all around or you can double layer the cage grids and place a layer of cardboard in between. This extra layer can later be removed once the guinea pigs are large enough that there is no chance their heads will fit through the bars. Usually at around four to six months of age.
Right After Birth
Weigh each baby as well as the mother every day. Why is this? By weighing your guinea pigs you can spot health problems before they become serious. Sometimes one of the babies in the litter will experience what is called “failure to thrive” – essentially not growing as well as the others. Sometimes this is caused by just not getting enough milk. You can solve this problem by giving the smaller baby extra time alone with the mother.
Mothers can also have serious complications (infections, etc) after the birth of their litter.These conditions will likely require early intervention by a veterinarian to prevent them from becoming life threatening. Any kind of odd fluctuation in weight is a good early indicator.
Good sample weights here.
Can I Handle the Babies?
Yes, your scent will not cause the mother to abandon the babies.
Special Food Requirements
Look for alfalfa based pellets – these are great for growing babies and pregnant mothers. Check the nutrition labeling for adequate levels of vitamin C. As always avoid animal products, unnecessary sugars and fats, as well as seeds and nuts. Oxbow is generally a good reliable high quality brand.
What to Do If the Mother Dies or Refuses to Nurse?
You will then need to hand feed the guinea pig babies yourself. You will want a small needless syringe for this as well as a product like OxBow Critical Care. If you cannot get critical care try soaking pellets in water and then pureeing into a liquid product. Adding a little bit of something sweet can encourage the babies to eat it – think baby food aisle at the grocery store, something like squash, carrots, or applesauce. Feed in small amounts every couple hours. Also hand feed the babies water at this time as well. Just be sure not to be too aggressive with your feeding as the babies can either choke or inhale the food.
Don’t forget – No animal products. This means no cow’s milk!
Keep portion of normal guinea pig food out so the babies can snack a little as they become able. This will help transition them from a dependency on you and your syringe.
Important – After feeding use a warm wet wash cloth to wipe each baby’s genitals a few times. This is a signal to the baby to pass waste.
When Do I Need to Separate the Males and Females?
Ideally at three weeks. If a male puppy is not thriving, go ahead and leave him with the mother for another week. The male puppies can then be moved into a cage with the father provided he is not dangerously unwelcoming.
Photo by the_beekeeper001
Photo by wstryder
Photo by wstryder
Photo by iLoveButter
a guinea pig cage
Did You Know That a Guinea Pig Cage is the Most Underestimated Secret to Guinea Pig Health and Happiness?
This is the secret pet stores will not tell you!
Did you know -
Most of the information about guinea pigs and guinea pig care found in popular pet care books, in pet store handouts, and offered by pet store employees is either outdated, disproved, or used to encourage you to buy overpriced, unsafe food, accessories, and supplies that can be hazardous to your guinea pig’s health!
That’s right, the people who you turn to for expert advice are actually giving you information that makes you guinea pig listless, unhealthy, unhappy, causes cage odor, and actually ultimately will reduce your guinea pig’s life span!
Fact #1: A Guinea Pig Cage Needs to be Larger Than You Think
Most people think that guinea pigs don’t need a lot of space. This is true in comparison to a larger animal like a dog. However, guinea pigs need a lot more room to run around, play and express their personalities than the average person thinks. A larger cage with the right type of bedding will also prevent 100% of all unnecessary guinea pig cage odor!
A Guinea pig cage – What you need:
A single guinea pig needs a cage about two and a half feet by three feet. If you have two guinea pigs aim for two and a half feet by four feet.
While it is not common to find a cage this large in your average pet store, a lot of guinea pig owners have better luck building their own cages or purchasing kits off of the Internet.
Fact #2: A Guinea Pig Cage Should NOT Stink EVER
Guinea pig cage odor is a major complaint for many owners. The first thing you need to do to prevent odor is make sure you cage is large enough. Secondly, clean the cage at least once per week – remove all bedding and clean out cage using vinegar. If using fleece as a bedding, try washing the fleece with a little vinegar. During the week you can make a vinegar/water solution and place it in a squirt bottle and use it to spot clean.
Sometimes pet urine develops a particularly sharp smell when there is too much sugar in the urine. Try reducing sugar intake, including fruits, and see if the smell improves.
Lastly, many people have been happy with using litter box training to reduce cage odor.
Fact #3: You can Make A Guinea Pig Cage – for less money and better quality
The most commonly built cage type is known as “C&C“ which stands for cubes (as in organization cubes like you would find at Bed Bath and Beyond) and coroplast, which a strong lightweight plastic that strongly resembles corrugated cardboard. When making a C&C cage your main concern should be to buy cubes that are safe. Many stores have cubes that have fewer than 9 x 9 grids. This results in opening larger than 1.5 inches. This can pose a danger as numerous guinea pigs have been known to stick their heads through these holes, get stuck, and then die by strangulation.
Also, try not to section off the cage – you want your guinea pigs to be able to run without any obstructions. Place hiding locations and other objects in the center of the cage.
How to make a guinea pig cage – C&C
What Is a C&C Cage?
“C&C” stands for cubes and coroplast. Coroplast is actually a brand name but the product itself is basically corrugated plastic (two thin layers of plastic separated by hollow columns) and “cubes” refers to the square metal grids that one would fit together to make storage cubes (like you would see in a closet organizer system.) So, a C&C cage is essentially a custom designed guinea pigs cage using square metal grids for the walls and then the coroplast sits inside the cage to form the cage floor or bin.
What are the advantages of C&C guinea pig cages?
The main reason that guinea pig owners are drawn to making their own C&C cages is primarily due to the fact that most commercially available guinea pig cages are simply too small. Ideally a lone guinea pig would have a cage of approximately 7.5 square feet; however most commercially available cages are closer to 40″L X 18″W X 20″H.
The modular nature of the metal grids allows one to create a variety of cage sizes to suit one’s particular needs while the coroplast is easy to work with, lightweight, nontoxic, strong, and waterproof (meaning it will last and be easy to clean)– in fact some C&C cage owners have had coroplast liners last for five years. The simplicity of the materials also allows one to design more elaborate and customized cages with features like wheels and multiple levels.
What do I need to consider when choosing the materials for my C&C guinea pig cage?
When choosing the metal grid cubes for your cage, be aware that while the cubes themselves may be a standard size, the actual grid spacing can vary between models and manufacturers. Some grid layouts will be obviously too large such as a 14in square cube that has a 5 by 5 grid layout. Other grid layouts will look deceptively small enough, such as the 8 by 8 grid layout. The danger with this size is that the grid spacing is just large enough for a determined guinea pig to partially work themselves through the bars and in some cases strangulation has occurred. If you build your own C&C cage, please make sure you select a 9 by 9 grid layout (this breaks down to 1.5in spacing) as this is the safest option.
Where can I get the materials to make a guinea pig cage?
In the US any store like Target, Bed Bath and Beyond, or Walmart is a good starting point. Online sites like guineapigcages.com and ebay will also sell the particular equipment. Coroplast can usually be obtained from stores tyat carry materials for making signs.
Outside of the US, many people seem to be struggling to get materials. I recommend contacting your local rescue/shelter/or breeder to see if they know of a good source or if they sell kits.
In the UK, many people have recommended B&Q (in-store, not always online) http://www.diy.com/ as well as Wickes http://www.wickes.co.uk/ In general these seem to go in and out of stock periodically. Guineapigcages.com maintains probably the best source directory online.
In Australia people are reporting that materials can be found at some Bunnings (called IBEX GRIDS) but not all. This seller on ebay is a good source for the coroplast.
In Singapore, people seem to have luck finding grids in Daiso.
For more information
For more information on where to buy pre-made C&C cages and how to build your own C&C cage, be sure to check out the Complete Guinea Pig Handbook!
guinea pig kids
Guinea Pigs | Kids
What is the best age to start my child with guinea pigs?
Ideally no younger than nine and no child under the age of eleven can really be relied upon to take on pet care responsibilities despite good intentions. Guinea pigs are somewhat delicate physically and younger children are still struggling with impulse control and fine motor skills. This means there’s a greater chance either your pet can be dropped or injured OR frightened and scratch your child. If you intend to be the primary caretaker of the guinea pig, you can VERY closely supervise some interaction with children above the age of five. The best sign a child is too young for pets is if he or she doesn’t fully grasp the meaning of “no.”
Another factor to consider is the lifespan of a guinea pig. You can expect a healthy, well cared for guinea pig to live as long as eight years. Its important to remember that your child’s activities and responsibilities will increase with age, especially as they move into high school as college. During those times you may become the primary caretaker.
Does the Breed Matter?
Yes and no. In general the main difference between guinea pig breeds is not temperament such as with dogs but rather appearance. Guinea pigs have been bred for a variety of different colors and hair types. The easiest guinea pig is going ot be one with short smooth hair as this will not require a lotof grooming. Look for the breed called “American”or “Self.” Longer haired guinea pigs like Silkies, Peruvian, etc really need a lotof grooming their long hair tangles very easily. One other breed related factor to consider is this – you will see some breed types described as also having “satin” varieties – this means ones with satiny hair. These types of guinea pigs are going to be more slippery and it can be easy for small children to drop them.
What About Sex?
Male guinea pigs tend to be more active while females are more docile. This is of course just a generalization. Most guinea pigs will make excellent pets for your child as long as they have been properly socialized. There is one important issue to consider – if you have young children, do not get mixed sex guinea pigs. You may intend to keep them apart, but when you are not looking your children could be letting them loose together. This can lead to unintentional pregnancies.
Age?
People have this odd tendency to think kids need “baby” pets. I think people believe younger pets are more gentle, tolerant, and malleable. This is not exactly true. Young animals share a lot in common with young children in that they are unpredictable and easily startled. A better bet for your family is an adult guinea pig.
Can I Allow My Child To Keep the Cage in Their Room?
No, this is really not a good idea. Guinea pigs really need to be kept in a common family room so you can monitor their health and living conditions. If a guinea pig becomes ill, their conditions can progress very rapidly and this is too easy to miss if they are locked away alone. Additionally, its very difficult to bond with a pet if they are not incorporated as “one of the family.” Lastly, some children can develop allergies to bedding if they live in close contact with the cage every day.
Allergies?
For most people, guinea pig allergies are not an issue – meaning they are not allergic to the animal itself. Usually guinea pig allergen is found in urine, saliva not hair or dander. If you are worried you or your child has a guinea pig allergy (signs include difficulty breathing, stuffy runny nose, or itchy eyes/skin) note that these allergens will go out into the air any time the bedding is stirred up. In addition to visiting an allergist you can also purchase a HEPA air purifier to place near the guinea pig cage. Don’t be afraid to also open windows to allow fresh air in. Lots of modern houses are actually build too airtight and you can benefit from moving the old air out.
Do not think you are limited to cleaning the cage inside. Instead take it outside and have a member of the family who is not allergic do the cleaning. If this is not possible, wear a face mask and gloves. Furthermore, now that you know its the urine likely causing allergies, its even more incentive to keep the cage cleaned out.
Don’t forget about basic hygiene – have your child wash their hands after handling their guinea pig. If you or your child are very sensitive, wear long sleeved shirts and place a towel between you and the guinea pig. Vacuum on a regular basis. There are also new pet allergy specific vacuum cleaner filters that you can try.
Handling
Teach your child the proper way to handle a guinea pig. Set ground rules like “You must be sitting to hold the guinea pig.” Or, “You can hold the guinea pig but only if they are in a cozy AND you are sitting” for the youngest child. Its important to explain to the child that to the guinea pig they appear to be giant scary creatures. Its only if they are very gentle and quiet that the guinea pig will learn that there is nothing to fear. Even petting needs to be explained. Show them how to gently pet the guinea pig, avoiding sensitive areas like eyes.
Trust
Guinea pigs are gentle creatures and they respond best to gaining trust over time. Show your children how to sit quietly on the floor with their hands folded with a delightful treat sitting in front of them (may need to be placed further away at first.) Think little cubes of apples or leafy greens. This will tempt the guinea pig to come closer. Over time you can have your child place the treats closer to them until finally they can hold the treats in their hands and have the guinea pig come eat.
Food
Make sure you supervise the feeding of the guinea pigs. Lots of children have a natural tendency to share foods they like with people or animals they like. Remember, guinea pigs cannot eat animal products at all (and some plant foods are poisonous or hard to digest.) This means no cheese cubes, no sneaked spaghetti, no long stalks of celery, no potatoes, etc.
For more great information on guinea pigs and kids, please subscribe to our newsletter!
